Yes, joint as in the one you smoke…
It’s been an eventful two weeks since I last wrote on the ferry crossing to Sumatra. Motorbikes, volcanoes, ships on top of houses, and Air Asia air hostesses. I’ll try to keep it brief!
Arriving in Dumai from the ferry, we had to pay for visas. They really don’t see many foreigners, so they don’t have a proper visa printing machine. Just blank stickers, and they hand write it! Following that we had to wait for the X-Ray machine to warm up, they only seem to check the bags of foreigners, probably because alcohol is extremely restricted in Sumatra. My bag had a large bottle of Gin and a couple of litres of wine, but amazingly they thought it was Rik’s bag they saw on the screen. Opened his bag to find no alcohol so feeling rather stupid they made him eat a vitamin pill!
After dealing with transport to Toba, that afternoon we ended up teaching English in a small school. This was a fun experience, I’m very keen to do some teaching work in Asia, but I don’t want to take a chunk of time out to do it, now I’ve started Totem Films it would be silly to put it on hold for 6 months. So an afternoon teaching kids was great fun, and trying to explain why the economic crisis has happened, to a class of 15 year old Indonesians was certainly a challenge! We left exchanging facebooks, and hit the road to Toba.
Toba was a real highlight of this trip so far. It’s a massive volcanic crater lake, over 100km across, with another volcanic peak (50km across island) in the middle of it. Tuk Tuk is a small peninsular on the south edge of the island, full of guest houses and restaurants. It was completely deserted, literally a ghost town. Last time it was busy was in 1998 explained a restaurant owner. Since then natural disasters in the area and political unrests elsewhere in Sumatra have seriously affected tourism. I estimate there were no more than 30 foreigners in Tuk Tuk, and another 20 Indonesian tourists, which is crazy for a resort that has enough accommodation to cater for almost 1000. So why did I love this ghost town so much you are thinking! We joined up with a Finnish couple and rented motorbikes. Over the period of two days we covered over 350km! Biking around the whole island and up into the mountain, we passed tiny villages and settlements of the Batak people who live there. Kids would run after us shouting “hello mister, hello misses”. We got to see genuine Indonesian life, no tourist route, no guide, no book to follow, just straight out onto local roads and tracks into local areas. We even stopped at the odd place and had a drink, or ate at some of the local shacks, their equivalent of our pubs. It was an amazing two days that I will never forget.
I also loved the motor biking itself. I had never driven one before, only a twist and go fully automatic easy scooter in China last year. This time I had gears and the rest to deal with. I learnt the Indonesian way, the 12 year old girl who was holding her mother’s shop while she was out, drove the motorbike down the road and back to fill it up with fuel for me. Then showed me how to use the motor bike and sent me on my way. Flip-flops, no helmet, no t-shirt, and straight onto your typical Asian road where the only rules are ‘think fast’ and the fastest, first or biggest has priority. After a few km of that we were on gravel, mud, sand and all sorts of churned up surfaces. Euan Mc Gregger what were you moaning about on Long way down, it’s not that bad! I’ve always mocked motor bikes, as I’m really a car driving man. But to all those car drivers like me, I urge you, find one of those amazing curving and winding mountains roads that you love to drive in your car, and do it on a motorbike. It’s an incredible feeling, and you can apply most of the same techniques of driving your car to the bike. The feeling of rocking over to the side as you go into a corner, then powering out accelerating considerably faster than a car, with the wind in your hair… Really I now can’t decide what I like the best, driving my car or motor bike!
After Toba we made our way to Banda Aceh, the city at the very top of the Indonesian main land. Aceh was actually by a considerable difference the worst hit place by the Tsunami 5 years ago. It’s a shame that in the UK all we heard about on the news was the touristy places in Thailand. It’s really worth spending a day exploring this city if you find yourself in the north of Sumatra. There is a massive boat which has landed on top of a mosque about 8km from the coast. The locals now pray on the top of it as the mosque beneath is completely demolished. There is also a fishing boat even further inland, balanced on top of a house. The beach is nothing quite like anywhere else in the world. There is a flat plane of over 3km before you reach the water, all of which is now fresh plant life. It used to be dense jungle but it was all completely destroyed, so now there is nothing more than 5 years old which looks very strange. As you drive through it, you can spot the concrete squares on the ground, old foundations of buildings. Literally nothing is left but a smooth concrete top, everything was ripped from the ground by the force of the water. The only building which survived in this area was a mosque, and there are photos of that mosque surrounded by nothing for kms. Another strange thing about this beach is that is littered with massive chunks of corral which got churned up by the tsunami and dumped on the beach. As you stand on the beach and look across to a piece of steeply rising land opposite, you can see a strip of completely fresh vegetation, before it gets high enough to where the tsunami didn’t destroy the dense aged jungle life. I couldn’t estimate just how high that line was, but it’s much higher than you would expect.
The whole city is doing amazingly well, they have recovered and rebuilt remarkably fast in 5 years. A lot of that is obviously down to the large amount of aid from countries all over the world including ours. Through my travels I keep finding communities I admire, and this is another. If a disaster like this happened on the south coast of England, all we would do is whine to the government until they fix it, and complain that they didn’t have any precautions in place. It would be unlikely to see communities joining together, pooling funds and sharing the work between everyone. I think we would just be far too selfish.
That evening we met a local on the beach who we spent the rest of the evening with. He owns a construction company so obviously has plenty of work. Driving around he could just point to buildings he had rebuilt or restored. We learnt a lot from him about the area, including how Alcohol and weed are very illegal, but on special occasions the police provide both to people for free! Facts about the tsunami. He told us how when the tsunami came, it was a Sunday when most of the city come to the beach for the day. The water rapidly went out leaving bare coral for many kms. Nobody understood why this was happening, and they all just ran out into the sea to catch all of the fish flapping about. Of course they all died. He also spoke about the local customs, and a lot about the Muslim laws. I find this subject very interesting and often ask about it, but almost all Muslims are reluctant to talk much about it. I will write a separate piece about some of what I talked to him about later.
We then moved on to Pulau Weh, the island right at the very tip of Indonesia. Here everything just seemed to go wrong! We had a nightmare trying to get money because nothing worked, internet was impossible, electricity if we were lucky for a random hour of the day… Where we chose to stay however is stunningly beautiful. The water is so clear you can see the bottom no matter how deep you go. The coral is vibrant and healthy, and the fish are incredible. We had a little wooden chalet on stilts overhanging the water. On our balcony the view was framed by the leaves of two palm trees, looking perfectly east for the sunrise over the small jungle island 100 meters across the water. For a view like that people pay hundreds if not thousands per night in some places around the world. I paid £1.75.
I planned to get my PADI (diving qualification) here, as its one of the cheapest places in the world to do it. However on the first day i had a rather serious motorbike accident. It happened on a sharp bend about 200 meters from ‘Point Zero’ which is the John O’Groats of Indonesia. So unfortunately I spent the rest of my time there looking after my foot. I really should have gone to hospital, but it just seemed like too much effort! At least I’ve ticked that box, had a motorcycle accident.
On Monday I head back to the mainland to catch a flight to Bali. We were almost late because I had to make Rik carry my bag. I could barely walk on my injured foot, it was swollen so large it wouldn’t even fit in my shoe. Unfortunately the flight was cancelled, and we had to wait in Banda Aceh for two nights, on Air Asia’s tab of course. We met a Malaysian girl Teng Teng, and spent some of AirAsia’s money with her on steaks and imported wines. On the last night we got to know the air hostesses and drank gin watching the MJ funeral with them. Not a bad delay after all, and knowing the air hostesses on a flight is brilliant, I had a whole row to sleep on, and free food and drink!
Sumatra has been amazing, I am certainly coming back to Sumatra and seeing more and a lot more of Indonesia in the future. It seems it’s an often overlooked country, with so much to offer, and it’s very cheap. It’s certainly not for the novice traveller, or if you like your western comforts too much like showers and electricity, but it’s an amazing experience with a bit of everything to do and see. I’ll be back Sumatra, soon!
If you’ve read this far you deserve a reward! 10 days in Sumatra in almost 2000 words! Here’s a panorama i took at Toba that isnt on facebook 

Here are the photos from Sumatra, except Pulau Weh, where I didn’t actually take any. It was too beautiful for photos, maybe next time because I will return there again one day, when I can actually walk and go in the water perhaps!
On the way to Toba & teaching:

Lake Toba:

Banda Aceh:
